Style and Standards

Most modern Independence Pass climbs done today started out as chossy, nearly unclimbable rock. Much cleaning is required. This is because most of the natural, ground-up type of line potential has already been done in the 45 year history of Independence Pass route establishment. Depending on the type of route that you want to put up, please abide by the following local standards and traditions of the Pass.

• During the early development of Independence Pass, bold routes were established ground up, many without prior inspection. This means that if you want to put up a run-out, adventure climb with sketchy pro, do it from the ground up, with minimal inspection from above. Others willhave to climb these routes at the same level of boldness as the first ascentionists.
• Due to the nature of the rock, most Pass mixed gear routes were first cleaned then rehearsed on toprope, while trying to leave the rock in its most natural state. Bolts on these routes should be placed with thoughtful discretion allowing for as much natural protection as possible.
• Rap bolted sport routes should be cleaned and have appropriate protection with thought-out clipping positions. The end result should be a perfect sport climb. Please abide by the following:
• NEVER alter existing routes! If the protection on a particular route does not suit your liking or ability, choose another climb.
• NEVER chip, chisel, glue, or scar the rock.
• Do not squeeze routes in-between other established routes.
• Avoid establishing new climbing on crags immediately above the road. They are a hazard to you and passer-byers.
• All new climbs should include anchors if an obvious or established descent is not present.